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Switzerland/Strasbourg/Milan October 2024 At the end of Sept. Mike and I did a 2 week trip to Switzerland, France and Italy. We didn't have the best start cuz I noticed that Mike's last name was spelled wrong (my fault while booking I guess), so I called Aer Lingus who said no problem and sent me the correction via email. But come check in time, it was still spelled wrong, they couldn’t fix it at the counter and told us just go to TSA. TSA weren't having that plus it showed Mike on a KLM flight, so back to the counter where the agent walks us over and we finally get in. I then spent WAY too much time on the phone to make sure Aer Lingus had it straight for the flight from Dublin to Geneva. I then lost my Geneva notes (thankfully I always email them to myself) and the plane was weird (random stuff) but we arrive on time.
We arrive at our Auteuil Manotel Hotel in Geneva where our room was ready, yet they wanted to charge 50CHF to check in early. Please. We usually just leave the bags in storage but he gave us a reduced price, which was still a rip off but we bit the bullet, left them in the room and headed immediately to the record store a short walk away. Dig It was awesome, one of the best stores ever, great owner, got some deals, could have spent a lot there (if I really record shopped anymore). Grabbed a bite then took the train to the Domaine les Perrieres winery. The guys working there were really nice, we got a great tasting deal and I discovered Chasselas white wine. We regrouped for dinner of a traditional tart flambée/flammekuchen (after getting the wrong order), ended up at Alma for drinks served by great bartenders then headed over to what was supposed to be a rock club, but it was cumbia nite at La Turbine haha. Thankfully Pub Lord Jim across from our hotel was a cool 50's looking place with a fun owner, and so easy to get home (and actually sleep well!).
Sunday was a beautiful day, I grabbed a croissant and we walked to the Musee d'Arte et d'Histoire where there was a lot of cool stuff (including that freaky exhibit, see video above). I felt light-headed so waited outside where I then lost the cord to my portable charger. What the heck was my problem. We walked around Lake Geneva, got some treats outdoors and saw these two women playing ping pong assuming they got paddles from a nearby business. When we asked where to go, they said they had their own paddles and let us bang it around a little bit. That nite we got a fancy, overpriced gin & tonic at Hotel Bristol then to the opposite side of things, the metal bar La Citadelle with wicked fun local metal dudes. A great time.
We had to leave at 6am on Mon. (Mike feeling a tad hungover) and discovered the trains don't always run on time, even in Switzerland. We're going along talking to a couple from China doing the same complicated train ride (Geneva-Bern-Interlaken-Grindelwald) only to hear an announcement that the signals were messed up. We had to get off but Mike and I couldn't squeeze onto the crowded train so I used my half assed French to find out what we had to do, taking two extra stops, etc. It wasn't easy but we got to beautiful Grindelwald finally, 2 hrs late. Lehmann's Herberge was very basic (not even a TV) but smack in the middle of things with an amazing view. We couldn't check in yet so since it was gorgeous out (the forecast had been horrible for the whole time we were away, thankfully mostly wrong), we headed to Jungfrau. Took a cable car up then waited in line 70 min to do the First Glider ride (too windy for ziplines) talking to an American family while the wife flossed her teeth (her hubby's a dentist but sheesh). The ride was quick after a long wait but it was fun. Walked around a bit and sat outside for a sausage and beer lunch enjoying the view. On the cable car ride back, a guy proposed to his girlfriend. We went to Derbystube for a nice dinner of wild boar but got side eye when we said we were splitting dinner (not the first time that trip). Ended the nite at the bar at the Sunstar Hotel which was kind of the happening spot in town (such as it is) and hung out with some fun guys from North Carolina.
After a nice hotel breakfast, we took the short train ride to Lauterbrunnen sitting with some fun Calif. people. It was a miserable day but we went up the waterfall, walked around, got fresh donuts then took a short train ride to Interlaken (they don't check your tickets too often so did that one for free). It's a cute town with an amazing blue river and lots of shops (esp. if you need a watch) and would have been a nicer visit if my crappy rain jacket wasn't falling apart (thankfully Mike brought about 8 jackets haha). Tried to buy a ticket for the return but it wasn't working so rode for free again. Pre-dinner drink then a mediocre at best dinner but saved by the Sunstar, sitting in front of the fire. The nite was ruined by bad sleep but you've heard that before.
Wed. we chatted with nice Australians at bkfst who were traveling for weeks (that's a terrible exchange rate) then walked to a glacier that Mike had read about. As we approached, he decided to do the canyon swing w 6 other people. There was no time to think about it since that group was ready to go. Kind of bungy-esque but more swinging back and forth, pretty cool (see video). The walk thru the canyon and glaciers was great with tons of waterfalls and rainbows. Back to town for lunch, a traditional raclette at Kreuz & Post where we had a fun waitress who gave no side eye for splitting food. Bought a long sleeve Grindelwald hooded shirt for 10CHF! (unheard of) then a quick coffee at Eiger, mini golf on the main street w/ mountain views, some regrouping then a fancy drink at the Bergwelt lounge (with another fireplace), and a lovely dinner of pheasant, spaetzle and cabbage at Mercato. Of course, we capped off our stay with a last drink and free snacks at Sunstar by the fire. 7:50AM train on Thurs., first to Interlaken where we only had 6 min to connect (but it was fine), change again in Basel then finally up to Strasbourg. The French train had no translation for their announcements, it was hot and stuffy and nothing like a non-flushing toilet and sink that doesn't work. Could have ridden that one for free too. Walked to the Ibis Hotel which was ok (best deal, smallest room), walked to old town and split a tarte flambée for lunch, walked around, got great pastries at Woerle, then nap time. Back out to the very old, touristy and awesome Gurtlerhoft for dinner. It was busy but they were very accommodating and we enjoyed a great Alsatian meal (chicken cordon bleu, salad, tasty Silvaner wine) then over to Excalibur metal bar which was no Citadelle but a good time. They need to mix up their music more but he played my Accept request, and we finally got to the hotel after getting all twisted around.
Fri. we visited the Musée d’Art Moderne right next to the hotel and they had lots of interesting stuff including the Kandinsky music room. We walked to the cathedral but there was a long line so we decided to do the canal tour after lunch in the sun. A little rain on the boat ride but not bad, saw some interesting sights and got to other parts of town. That night was the traditional "travel agent dinner" starting at the cool Code Bar who made us really interesting drinks. Our awesome bartender Loic also gave us mezcal shots (nice for those who like mezcal). Then it was dinner at the fancy Maison Kammerzell from 1427 where most everything was great (esp. the escargots). We had a sweet waiter (but got weird looks from people sitting by us) and it actually was priced fairly well. We were spent from the day and not in the mood for another bar, so we ended the nite on the beautiful carousel by the cathedral.
The plan for Sat. had been to meet up with Mike's friend from Germany but she crapped out, so we got to the cathedral early (beautiful interior) to climb the 330 steps to the top. It was a nice day so more walking to the small flea market, a record store, lunch of a Doner kebab, a drink on a barge then zipped thru the Botanical Gardens. I needed to chill for a couple hours before heading out to beer bar Le Petit Tigre then the very traditional Le Baeckeoffe for schnitzel, spaetzle and strudel (that Mike tried to get them to put a bday candle in but I wasn't having it). Made the long walk to bar Le Local but wanted to end up at Excalibur, where Pascal, a regular, told us we looked cute 😆.
Another crappy night of sleep, stomach not feeling great, a little foggy at first and tons of crows flying around the hotel (a thing at 7AM and 7PM daily it seemed). Time for the long train to Milan which started okay (another report of a bad toilet), easy switch at the nice Basel station where we got some food then continued our way but lo and behold, we're stuck at the station in this town Chiasso on the border of Switzerland and Italy for at least an hour. No word on what's going on (we found out there was no driver) so everyone starts trying to find an alternate way to get to Milan (Mike saw it was 235€ for an Uber). We were getting ready to follow other folks to a local train when ours finally left. No announcements, just doors close and time to go. We didn't arrive til 5:30 so missed the nice day. I had these Expedia points I didn't know I had so the Hotel Doria was a great deal and the room and people were excellent. For dinner we walked to Ciara which I'd read good things about, but it was kind of odd all around and we had to deal with Rico Suave sitting next to us. I'd also heard this place The Swan was a good rock bar, but it was horrible so the pizza restaurant across from our hotel had to do for a nightcap.
I finally slept fairly well (?!!), we visited the breakfast buffet then walked to the Duomo. I'd always been intrigued by that cathedral and it was amazing, especially the terraces. I couldn't stop taking photos. The interior was fine but it's all about walking up top, and thankfully there was no rain cuz that could get slippery. We then walked to the Navigli canal area where there's lots of cool art and graffiti (sadly we were there while the record stores were closed). Kept walking, grabbed a good slice of pizza and ended up at this bar Radetzky where we got the bad news that Monster Magnet had canceled the show that nite. We'd planned the trip to catch that show while they were touring Europe, had the hookup to get in but sadly Dave Wyndorf isn't doing well and he'd had to sit while singing at previous shows, so they ended up canceling the rest of the tour. We were so psyched since it had been 6 years since they were in Boston, bummer. We spent extra time drowning our sorrows on Radetzky's nice, heated patio watching the world go by. That nite it was plan B starting at the very cool cocktail bar Mogamo by our hotel for excellent drinks and friendly service, then took the bus to a bar called Headbangers which kinda reminded me of a bar in Tromso. Played pool, ate mediocre pizza and hung with these young kids who'd come over to talk with us, so it was a good time. Back to Mogamo for a nightcap and home.
Tues. morning we zipped into the bkfst room then headed out in the pouring rain to the train. It's a quick walk but I was soaked as was my suitcase (the only point in favor of hard luggage). It's a short ride to Varenna but then we had to find our way to the ferry (still raining) and get to Bellagio and our grande dame of a hotel, the Excelsior Splendide. Couldn't check in yet but our gal at the front desk let me use her umbrella so we wandered around then sat at Bar Florence for a latte and talked to some folks from NH who saw I had a Pats shirt on. I was starting to get full on sick but still made it out early for a drink, a delicious sbagliato (like a negroni) with snacks (but ignored by the waitress). Antico Pozzo was on one of those cute side streets and they didn't give us side eye when we ordered a dish of saffron ravioli and drinks. You weren't even allowed to split dishes at the next stop B Lake, it was okay but we ended w/ an excellent cake recommended by some Penn. folks who were into music.
It was a bad nite feeling sick, constant waking up, coughing, it lingered too long (finally got better in Boston). We had breakfast then a coffee at the outdoor café the hotel has by the ferry, which made it easy to hop on to explore Varenna. Wandered around ready for some lunch and went to another recommended place Il Cavatappi, but that's getting axed off the list. Total douche waiter who fully rolled his eyes when we ordered drinks, a grilled vegetable plate and gnocchi w shrimp (go ahead and make fun of fat Americans yet roll your eyes when they don't each want 3 course meals asshat). The shrimp had the full head on which isn't my favorite and Mike really had an issue so I took it off and put it in their little bread basket, the dude didn't like that either. Time to get out of Varenna, grabbed a gelato in town, back out to the Gambrinus beer place (another sbagliato for me) then a stop at Nando where we got no dirty looks when splitting a pizza. The trains continued to screw up and our 10:35AM back to Milan was canceled for some reason, so we stood for an extra hour plus (cuz the next one was also late) talking to tourists from the US. Hotel Bristol was super close to the station, so after checking in we went our own ways. I hit this not so great record store then sat outdoors for a Negroni and stale snacks. This was the nite we were meeting Mike's cousin 5 times removed, so we quickly grabbed some tapas on the way and met Tomasso and his friendly crew in the hip part of town. We then walked back with a quick stop at Pacino so Mike could get a Negroni outside. Fri. morning we took the bus to the airport, grabbed some food but stood a while cuz there were no seats at the gate. The change in Dublin was okay until we boarded and they told us there was a food mishap and we'd have to wait for the meals to be loaded on. It's always something. But damn, that was a great trip. Go to the Alps!
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